Feeding & Nutrition
The complete, research-backed guide to gecko nutrition. Feeder insects, supplements, schedules, and everything you need to keep your gecko thriving.
Understanding Gecko Diet Types
Not all geckos eat the same way. The single most important thing to understand before feeding your gecko is what type of eater it is. Gecko species fall into two broad dietary categories, and getting this wrong can lead to malnutrition or even fatal health issues.
Insectivores
These geckos eat only live insects and require a varied diet of properly supplemented feeders.
Common Species:
- Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius)
- African Fat-Tailed Geckos (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus)
- Tokay Geckos (Gekko gecko)
- Day Geckos (Phelsuma spp.)
Key Requirements
- Live, moving prey only (most won't eat dead insects)
- Variety of 2-3 different feeder species
- Calcium and vitamin supplementation at every feeding
- Properly gut-loaded insects for maximum nutrition
- Prey sized no wider than the space between the gecko's eyes
Omnivores / Frugivores
These geckos eat a mix of fruit, nectar, and insects. Many thrive on commercial powdered diets.
Common Species:
- Crested Geckos (Correlophus ciliatus)
- Gargoyle Geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus)
- Leachianus Geckos (Rhacodactylus leachianus)
- Chahoua Geckos (Mniarogekko chahoua)
Key Requirements
- Commercial gecko diet (CGD) as primary food source
- Live insects 1-2x per week as supplemental protein
- Occasional mashed fruit as a treat
- Fresh CGD replaced every 24-48 hours
- Misting for hydration (drink water droplets, not from bowls)
Pro Tip: The Golden Rule of Gecko Feeding
Never feed your gecko prey items wider than the space between its eyes. Oversized prey can cause choking, impaction, or regurgitation. When in doubt, go smaller â your gecko will simply eat more pieces to get the same amount of food.
Complete Feeder Insect Guide
Variety is the cornerstone of a healthy insectivore diet. Each feeder insect has different nutritional profiles, and rotating between 2-3 types ensures your gecko gets balanced nutrition. Here's everything you need to know about each option.
Dubia Roaches
Top StapleThe gold standard feeder insect. Dubia roaches offer the best protein-to-fat ratio of any common feeder and are incredibly easy to maintain.
Pros
- High protein (23%), low fat (7%)
- Excellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratio
- Can't climb smooth surfaces or jump
- Odorless, quiet, long-lived
- Easy to breed at home
Cons
- Illegal in some states/provinces (FL, Canada)
- Require warmth to breed (85-95°F)
- Slower-moving (less stimulating for some geckos)
Crickets
Good StapleThe most widely available feeder insect. Crickets are nutritious and their active movement triggers strong feeding responses in most gecko species.
Pros
- Available at every pet store
- Good protein (21%), moderate fat (6%)
- Active movement stimulates hunting
- Easy to gut-load
- Available in many sizes
Cons
- Loud chirping (males)
- Escape artists â jump and climb
- Die quickly, smell when dead
- Can nibble on geckos if left in enclosure
Mealworms
Convenient StapleEasy to store and readily accepted by most geckos. Mealworms can live for weeks in the fridge, making them the most convenient feeder option.
Pros
- Very easy to store (refrigerator)
- Long shelf life (weeks to months)
- No noise, no escaping
- Widely available, inexpensive
Cons
- Higher chitin content (harder exoskeleton)
- Higher fat (13%) than dubias or crickets
- Lower calcium-to-phosphorus ratio
- Less stimulating (don't move much)
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL)
Calcium RichAlso sold as "Calciworms," "NutriGrubs," or "Phoenix Worms." BSFL are unique because they naturally contain high levels of calcium, reducing the need for dusting.
Pros
- Naturally high in calcium (Ca:P ratio of 1.5:1)
- No gut-loading or dusting needed
- Soft-bodied, easy to digest
- Good protein (18%), moderate fat (14%)
Cons
- Small size â not ideal for large geckos
- Less protein than dubias or crickets
- Some geckos ignore them (don't move much)
Superworms
Adults OnlyLarger cousins of mealworms. Superworms are best reserved for adult geckos due to their size and strong mandibles. A good high-energy feeder for larger species.
Pros
- High protein (20%), good energy content
- Active and stimulating for hunting
- Easy to keep at room temperature
- Widely available
Cons
- Too large for juveniles and small species
- Strong mandibles â can bite gecko's stomach
- Higher fat (18%) than most staple feeders
- Hard chitin exoskeleton
Hornworms
Hydration BoostLarge, soft-bodied caterpillars that are 85% water. Hornworms are excellent for hydrating geckos that are dehydrated, recovering from illness, or refusing water.
Pros
- ~85% moisture â excellent for hydration
- Soft-bodied, no chitin, very easy to digest
- High in calcium relative to phosphorus
- Bright color attracts picky eaters
Cons
- Low protein (9%) â not a staple
- Grow very fast; use quickly or refrigerate
- More expensive than other feeders
- Can get too large for small geckos
Silkworms
Premium FeederOften considered the single best feeder insect nutritionally. Silkworms are packed with protein, low in fat, and have excellent calcium content. The downside is availability and cost.
Pros
- Very high protein (64% dry), very low fat (10%)
- Excellent Ca:P ratio
- Soft-bodied, extremely easy to digest
- Rich in B vitamins and serrapeptase
Cons
- Expensive and hard to find
- Require mulberry leaves or chow to eat
- Fragile â die easily if not kept properly
- Seasonal availability
Waxworms
Treat OnlyThe "candy" of the feeder insect world. Waxworms are extremely high in fat and can be addictive â geckos that eat too many may refuse all other food. Use sparingly as an occasional treat or to entice a sick gecko to eat.
Acceptable Uses
- 1-2 per week maximum as a treat
- Enticing sick or recovering geckos to eat
- Helping underweight geckos gain weight
- Taming/bonding hand-feeding sessions
Why Limit Them
- 22% fat â leads to rapid weight gain
- Low protein (15%), poor nutrition overall
- Addictive â geckos may refuse other food
- Can cause fatty liver disease with overuse
Feeder Insect Nutritional Comparison
Use this table to compare the nutritional profiles of common feeder insects. Values are approximate and based on live weight analysis.
| Feeder | Protein | Fat | Moisture | Ca:P Ratio | Role |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dubia Roaches | 23% | 7% | 65% | 1:3 | Staple |
| Crickets | 21% | 6% | 69% | 1:4 | Staple |
| Mealworms | 20% | 13% | 62% | 1:7 | Staple* |
| BSFL | 18% | 14% | 61% | 1.5:1 â | Staple |
| Superworms | 20% | 18% | 58% | 1:18 | Occasional |
| Hornworms | 9% | 3% | 85% | 1:3 | Hydration |
| Silkworms | 64%* | 10% | 79% | 1:2.4 | Premium |
| Waxworms | 15% | 22% | 61% | 1:7 | Treat Only |
*Silkworm protein is measured dry weight. Mealworms are acceptable as a staple when paired with proper supplementation but should ideally be rotated with other feeders.
Gut-Loading: Supercharging Your Feeders
Gut-loading is the process of feeding highly nutritious foods to your feeder insects 24-48 hours before offering them to your gecko. Your gecko is only as healthy as what its food eats â an unfed cricket is essentially empty calories. Proper gut-loading can dramatically improve the nutritional value of any feeder insect.
â Best Gut-Load Foods
Vegetables (Primary)
- Butternut squash, acorn squash
- Carrots and carrot tops
- Sweet potato (raw or cooked)
- Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens
- Bell peppers (all colors)
Fruits (Supplemental)
- Mango, papaya, berries
- Apple slices (no seeds)
Commercial Options
- Repashy Bug Burger
- Mazuri Hi-Calcium Gut Loading Diet
- Arcadia InsectiGold
ðŦ Never Use for Gut-Loading
- Citrus fruits â too acidic, can cause digestive issues
- Onions & garlic â toxic compounds pass through to gecko
- Iceberg lettuce â zero nutrition, mostly water
- Spinach â contains oxalates that bind calcium
- Broccoli & cabbage â can cause thyroid issues
- Avocado â contains persin, toxic to reptiles
- Rhubarb â toxic oxalic acid
- Cat/dog food â wrong nutritional profile, too much protein
Timing Matters
Feed your gut-load foods to insects 24-48 hours before offering them to your gecko. This gives insects time to fully digest and absorb the nutrients. Insects fed just a few hours prior won't have properly absorbed the nutrition. Remove uneaten fresh food daily to prevent mold.
Complete Supplement Guide
Supplementation is non-negotiable for captive geckos. In the wild, geckos get minerals and vitamins from a diverse range of prey. In captivity, even gut-loaded insects don't provide everything your gecko needs â calcium and vitamin D3 are the most critical gaps. Without supplementation, geckos develop metabolic bone disease (MBD), a painful and often fatal condition.
Calcium (without D3)
The foundation of gecko supplementation. Pure calcium carbonate powder.
- When: Dust feeders at every feeding
- Also: Leave a small dish of pure calcium in the enclosure 24/7 for self-regulation
- Why: Essential for bone density, muscle function, and egg production
Calcium with D3
Vitamin D3 is required for calcium absorption. Critical for geckos without UVB lighting.
- When: 1-2 feedings per week
- Note: Geckos with UVB lighting produce their own D3 â reduce to 1x/week
- Caution: D3 is fat-soluble and can accumulate; don't over-supplement
Multivitamin
Provides vitamins A, E, B-complex, and trace minerals not available through insects alone.
- When: 1x per week (2x for juveniles)
- Key nutrient: Vitamin A (preformed retinol preferred over beta-carotene)
- Caution: Over-supplementing vitamin A causes toxicity (hypervitaminosis A)
Weekly Supplement Schedule (Insectivore Geckos)
| Day | Supplement | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Monday | Calcium (no D3) | Dust feeders lightly |
| Wednesday | Calcium with D3 | Dust feeders lightly |
| Friday | Calcium (no D3) | Dust feeders lightly |
| Sunday | Multivitamin | Dust feeders lightly â can combine with calcium (no D3) |
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) Warning
MBD is the #1 preventable disease in captive geckos and is caused by insufficient calcium and/or vitamin D3. Signs include rubbery jaw, kinked tail, tremors, lethargy, and inability to climb or grip. MBD is progressive and irreversible once bone deformity occurs â but it is 100% preventable with proper supplementation.
Commercial Gecko Diets (CGD)
For frugivorous species like crested geckos, gargoyle geckos, and leachianus, commercial gecko diets have revolutionized reptile keeping. These powdered formulas are mixed with water to create a complete, balanced meal. Many keepers successfully raise healthy geckos on CGD alone, though supplemental insects are still recommended for optimal health.
Pangea
The most popular CGD brand. Known for high palatability and consistent quality.
- Fruit Mix Complete: All-in-one daily diet
- Growth & Breeding: Higher protein for juveniles/breeders
- With Insects: Added insect protein for variety
- Fig & Insects: Popular flavor, excellent acceptance
Repashy
Developed by Allen Repashy. More insect-protein-heavy formulas.
- Crested Gecko MRP: Original meal replacement powder
- Grubs 'N' Fruit: Higher insect protein content
- Mango Superblend: Fruit-forward flavor
- Day Gecko MRP: Formulated for Phelsuma species
Leapin' Leachie
Smaller brand with enthusiastic following, especially for leachianus geckos.
- Higher protein formulas designed for larger Rhacodactylus
- Unique flavor profiles geckos love
Black Panther Zoological
Premium brand with whole-ingredient formulas and high-quality sourcing.
- Whole-fruit ingredients for better nutrition
- No artificial colors or preservatives
CGD Best Practices
- Mix CGD to a ketchup-like consistency (not too thin, not too thick)
- Offer fresh CGD every evening; remove and replace every 24-48 hours
- Rotate between 2-3 flavors/brands to prevent boredom
- Even with CGD, offer live insects 1-2x per week for enrichment and extra protein
- Juveniles may prefer slightly thinner consistency; adults like it thicker
Safe Fruits for Frugivorous Geckos
While commercial diets should be the primary food source, occasional fresh fruit can be offered as enrichment for crested, gargoyle, and similar species. Mash fruits into a smooth puree and offer in small amounts (a bottle cap is plenty). Fruit should make up no more than 10-15% of the overall diet.
Mashed, occasional
Excellent choice
Mashed, good antioxidants
Mashed, occasional
Very ripe, mashed
Ripe, soft variety
Great calcium source
High calcium, excellent
Note: Always remove uneaten fruit within 12-24 hours to prevent mold and fruit flies. Never offer citrus fruits (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit) as they are too acidic for geckos.
Feeding Schedules
Feeding frequency depends on both the species and the age of your gecko. Younger geckos need to eat more frequently to support rapid growth, while adults can be fed less often. Overfeeding adult geckos is a common mistake that leads to obesity.
Insectivore Schedule (Leopard Geckos, AFTs)
| Life Stage | Age | Frequency | Amount | Insect Size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hatchling | 0-3 months | Daily | As many as eaten in 10-15 min | 1/4" crickets, small dubias |
| Juvenile | 3-6 months | Every day | 5-8 insects | 1/2" crickets, medium dubias |
| Sub-Adult | 6-12 months | Every other day | 5-7 insects | 3/4" crickets, adult dubias |
| Adult | 12+ months | Every 2-3 days | 5-8 large insects | Full-size crickets, large dubias |
| Breeding Female | 12+ months | Every other day | 6-10 insects + extra calcium | Full-size, calcium-rich feeders |
Frugivore Schedule (Crested Geckos, Gargoyles)
| Life Stage | Age | CGD Frequency | Insects | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hatchling | 0-3 months | Fresh CGD nightly | 2-3 tiny insects 2x/week | Use growth formula CGD |
| Juvenile | 3-12 months | Fresh CGD every other night | 3-5 small insects 1-2x/week | Alternate CGD and insect nights |
| Adult | 12+ months | Fresh CGD every other night | 3-5 insects 1x/week | Monitor weight; reduce if obese |
| Breeding Female | 18+ months | Fresh CGD nightly | 5-8 insects 2x/week | Increase calcium; growth formula |
Feeding Time Tips
- Feed geckos in the evening when they naturally become active (crepuscular/nocturnal)
- Remove uneaten insects after 15-20 minutes to prevent them from stressing your gecko
- Never leave crickets in the enclosure overnight â they can bite sleeping geckos
- Track your gecko's weight monthly to ensure proper growth and prevent obesity
Hydration & Water Requirements
Proper hydration is just as important as proper nutrition. Different gecko species hydrate in very different ways, and understanding your gecko's natural drinking behavior is essential.
ð§ Ground Dwellers (Leopard Geckos, AFTs)
- Provide a shallow water dish at all times
- Change water daily to prevent bacterial growth
- Use dechlorinated or spring water (never distilled)
- Some will also drink water droplets from misting
- A humid hide helps with hydration and shedding
ðŋ Arboreal (Crested, Gargoyles, Day Geckos)
- Drink water droplets from misting â mist 1-2x daily
- Mist in the evening when they're waking up
- Allow enclosure to dry out between mistings
- Some will use a water dish; provide one as backup
- Dripping/drip systems work well for stubborn drinkers
Signs of Dehydration
- Skin tenting: Gently pinch the skin â if it stays raised, the gecko is dehydrated
- Sunken eyes: Eyes appear recessed or concave
- Wrinkled skin: Loose, wrinkled skin on sides and limbs
- Lethargy: Reduced activity and appetite
- Stuck shed: Difficulty shedding, especially around toes and tail tip
If your gecko is dehydrated, offer hornworms for moisture, increase misting, and provide a "sauna" soak (lukewarm water in a ventilated container for 15-20 minutes). See a vet if dehydration persists.
Common Feeding Problems & Solutions
ðĪ Picky Eaters
Gecko refuses certain feeders or only wants waxworms.
Solutions
- Fast for 5-7 days (adults), then offer the desired staple feeder
- Try feeding in a separate, plain container to reduce stress
- Offer feeders at dusk when gecko is naturally hungrier
- Try a different feeder species â some geckos prefer dubias over crickets
- Wiggle the feeder with tongs to trigger hunting instinct
- Gradually wean off waxworms by mixing with staple feeders
ð Overfeeding & Obesity
Gecko is visibly fat, with a very thick tail (leopard geckos) or large belly/armpit bubbles (crested geckos).
Solutions
- Reduce feeding frequency â adults don't need to eat every day
- Switch to lower-fat feeders (dubias, BSFL instead of mealworms/superworms)
- Eliminate waxworms entirely
- For crested geckos, reduce or eliminate insect feedings
- Encourage exercise with a larger enclosure and enrichment
- Weigh monthly and aim for gradual (not rapid) weight loss
ðŦ Refusing Food Entirely
Gecko hasn't eaten in a week or more.
Common Causes
- Temperature too low: Check hot spot (88-92°F for leos) and ambient temps
- Stress: New environment, recent handling, enclosure changes
- Shedding: Many geckos fast before and during a shed cycle
- Brumation: Some species slow down in cooler months (October-February)
- Ovulation/Gravid: Females may fast when producing eggs
- Illness: If accompanied by weight loss, lethargy, or discharge â see a reptile vet
ðĪĒ Regurgitation
Gecko throws up partially digested or whole insects.
Common Causes
- Prey too large: Follow the "space between the eyes" rule
- Temperature too cold: Geckos need warmth to digest; check heat source
- Handling after eating: Wait at least 24 hours after feeding to handle
- Parasites: Internal parasites can cause chronic regurgitation â see a vet for a fecal test
- Impaction: Loose substrate ingestion can cause blockages
Foods to NEVER Feed Your Gecko
Some foods are outright toxic or dangerous to geckos. This is not an exhaustive list, but covers the most common mistakes new keepers make. When in doubt, don't feed it.
Toxic & Dangerous Foods
Never Feed These Insects:
- Fireflies / Lightning bugs â contain lucibufagins; even ONE can kill a gecko
- Wild-caught insects â may carry pesticides, parasites, or diseases
- Beetles (wild) â hard exoskeletons, potential toxins
- Centipedes / millipedes â venomous or toxic secretions
- Ants â formic acid, can bite internally
- Spiders â potential venom, unpredictable
Never Feed These Foods:
- Avocado â contains persin, toxic to reptiles
- Citrus fruits â too acidic, causes digestive distress
- Onion / garlic / chives â toxic compounds
- Rhubarb â oxalic acid is toxic
- Any human processed food â cheese, bread, candy, etc.
- Dog/cat food â wrong nutrition, harmful additives
- Baby food â contains preservatives and additives
CRITICAL: Firefly Warning
Fireflies (lightning bugs) are the single most dangerous food item for geckos. They contain a toxin called lucibufagin that is lethal to reptiles even in tiny amounts. A single firefly can kill an adult leopard gecko within hours. Never feed any wild-caught, glowing, or bioluminescent insect to your gecko. If your gecko has ingested a firefly, seek emergency veterinary care immediately.
Starting Your Own Feeder Colony
If you have multiple geckos or want to save money long-term, starting a dubia roach colony is one of the best investments you can make. A properly maintained colony is self-sustaining, quiet, odorless, and produces a constant supply of perfectly-sized feeders.
Dubia Roach Colony Setup Guide
What You Need
- Container: Large plastic bin (20+ gallons) with ventilation holes
- Starter colony: 50-100 mixed-sex dubias (1:3 male-to-female ratio)
- Egg flats: Vertical cardboard egg crates for hiding/climbing
- Heat source: Under-tank heater or heat cable (85-95°F)
- Water crystals: Gel water cubes (no standing water â drowning risk)
- Food: Fruit/veggie scraps, commercial roach chow, or gut-load diet
Colony Maintenance
- Temperature: Keep 85-95°F; below 68°F stops breeding
- Humidity: Low to moderate (40-60%); too wet causes die-off
- Cleaning: Remove frass (droppings) monthly; replace egg flats as needed
- Feeding: Offer fresh food every 2-3 days; remove uneaten food daily
- Harvesting: Only take nymphs; leave adults to breed
- Timeline: Females produce 20-40 nymphs every ~60 days
Cost Savings
A starter colony of 50 dubias costs around $15-25. Once established (3-6 months), a colony of 200+ adults can produce hundreds of feeder nymphs monthly â saving you $20-50/month compared to buying feeders from pet stores. The colony essentially pays for itself within the first few months.
Sources & Further Reading
- Finke, M.D. (2002). "Complete nutrient composition of commercially raised invertebrates used as food for insectivores." Zoo Biology, 21(3), 269-285.
- de Vosjoli, P. et al. (2012). The Leopard Gecko Manual. CompanionHouse Books. ISBN: 978-1620081068.
- de Vosjoli, P. & Fast, F. (2015). Crested Geckos: From the Experts at Advanced Vivarium Systems. CompanionHouse Books.
- Repashy Superfoods. "Calcium Plus & Vitamin A Plus Product Information." repashy.com.
- Pangea Reptile LLC. "Pangea Fruit Mix Complete Gecko Diet â Nutritional Information." pangeareptile.com.
- Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV). "Metabolic Bone Disease in Reptiles." arav.org.
- Klingenberg, R.J. (2007). Understanding Reptile Parasites. Advanced Vivarium Systems.
- Dierenfeld, E.S. & King, J. (2008). "Digestibility and mineral availability of Phoenix Worms when fed to juvenile bearded dragons." Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery, 18(3-4), 53-59.